From Sistelo, Minho
The morning started with a homecooked breakfast delivered directly to the door and continued with a walk around the 'socalcos' - the iconic terraced landscapes give Sistelo. We followed cobbled paths eroded by centuries of animal wagons and passed several old granary barns, still standing strong in retirement.

It was a day of being stopped in our tracks - by a new view, by a herd of cattle being led along the paths and by the sight of a short-toed eagle flying above our heads, a little snake dangling in its claws.

From Caminho, Minho
From the stellar views over the Lima valley, the downward descent was easy on our tired legs. Settling into the rhythm, we realised we were walking onto the old cobbled Via Romana, passing gorgeous houses, crumblings ruins and a medieval Roman bridge.

We even saw what was, according to the local legend, the first ever yellow Camino de Santiago arrow marked down. Beware, the veracity of this story might be up for debate!

From A Guarda, Galicia
Isabel led us across the Spanish border into Galicia. She promised that we’d love the views… of Portugal. And she was right, the perspective from there was gorgeous!

After enjoying a nice walk along golden sandy beach, we followed a rugged granite coast to the fishing town of A Guarda. With the big open ocean on our left and the Monte Santa Trega rising on the other side, I really got a sense of reaching the end of the world, just as it was to Europeans in the olden days.

From Arcos Valdevez, Minho
We asked what time the little restaurant opened. "Come back at 7pm" she said, then looked in the kitchen. "Well no, 7:30pm". This gives you an idea of how uncomplicated life is.

At 7:35pm the place was filling. We ordered an espetada - a huge brochette of different meats - just because it sounded nice. But when we finished our delightful dinner and left, we realised it's probably the specialty of the house as every table ordered the same.