Photo stories
Andalucía under a winter sun
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As 2018 became 2019, the sun shone down on southern Spain. From the ancient olive groves of the Sierras Subbéticas to the thick chestnut forests of Aracena, from the festive streets of Cádiz to the noisy tapas bars of Seville, winter might just be the most wonderful time of the year in Andalucía.
I'm not sure the Spanish ibex are particularly bothered which day the calendar indicates. There's always a spring in their step, as this chap nimbly demonstrates on the limestone rocks of El Torcal, just off the road between Málaga and Granada.
Winter time is olive harvest time in Andalucía. Spend a day walking through the olive groves between late October and early March and you stand a decent chance of encountering the aceituneros at work, gathering up the yearly harvest.
Even on New Year's Eve, temperatures in central Andalucía can reach the 20s, making it ideal for a walk up to a ruined Moorish watchtower with Ruby, the lodge's rescue dog.
Wrapping up warm for stargazing under a clear night sky.
Our favourite walks in Andalucía are wonderfully peaceful any day of the year. But there's something magical about being out in a t-shirt in January, when you've woken up to frost on your windscreen and the country you've left behind is shivering under grey skies.
Papa Noel hanging out in the white village of Zuheros.
Despite being the base from which the Catholic Kings launched their assault on Granada to complete the Reconquest in 1492, and despite offering stunning views across to the Sierra Nevada mountains, Alcalá la Real's fortress receives barely 5% of the visitors that Granada's Alhambra receives. On this New Year's Eve, we probably saw six other people there.
Just look at that sky. New Years Eve in Priego de Córoba.
The famous church bell towers of Ejica look glorious under the winter sky too.
Known as the 'Mezquita in miniature', Almonaster's hilltop mosque-cum-church is one of our favourite Reconquest era monuments, tucked up to the west of Seville and visited by precious few. The light, even on a cool January afternoon, is just beautiful.
Long shadows below the Islamic arches of Almonaster's Mezquita.
Stands of Mediterranean cork oaks are a common feature of Aracena's landscape...
... So too are the Ibérico pigs which snaffle for acorns from the holm oaks on the walking trails near Linares.
After a good morning's walk through the peaceful beauty of the Sierra de Aracena, there's nothing like a five-course tasting lunch, great company and red wine by the fire to while away the afternoon.
Itálica's amphitheatre, looking splendid in the morning sun. One of the great Roman cities of Hispania, Itálica's remains can easily be visited on the drive south from Aracena to Seville.
As well as the Gladiatorial arena, another Itálica highlight has to be the elaborate tiled floors from the villas, including the incredible House of Birds, depicting 35 different species.
This is the scene that awaits us in Seville, with the beautiful Mudéjar-style Giralda Tower framed by plump oranges. May I remind you, this is early January.
The late afternoon winter light of Plaza de España is a photographer's dream.
There's definitively no better place to watch the sun slip below the Sevillan horizon than from the Setas (Mushrooms) walkway.
The tapas bars of Seville's old Santa Cruz barrio are lively on any day of the year. But on the eve of the Los Reyes (Three Kings Parade), there's an even more palpably festive spirit.
Each 5th January, towns and cities across Spain celebrate Los Reyes Magos - the arrival of the Three Wise Men. It is they, not Santa Claus, who bring the presents to the children up and down Spain. We'd timed our own arrival in Seville to coincide with the colourful, joyful parades.
Being surrounded by chanting, smiling, festive Sevillanos as passing floats hurl their treats out to the outstretched limbs of the masses is one of my favourite memories from this trip. As the only tourists in sight, I felt like we were part of a very local, very special community. Thinking back to the energy and sense of togetherness always brings a smile to my face.
Rosca de Reyes - Three Kings Bread - is traditionally eaten on Epiphany, 6th January.
Seville all dressed up for Christmas
Cádiz was at its beautiful and peaceful best in January. This historic port city - one of the oldest in Europe - is as relaxing a city as we know in Andalucía. But you do have to pick your moment; when the cruise ships are in, the city can very quickly get to feeling overrun. Not today, not in January.
Celebrating Christmas amid the atmospheric sherry bodegas of Jerez.
The chilly morning didn't put off locals from getting their Churros treats.
Arcos de la Frontera is one of my favourite white villages in Andalucía. No doubt it can get a little busy in peak times, but today we kicked around it with a handful of visitors and locals unfussedly going about their lives.
Winter light at its best of Zahara de la Sierra.
From early morning ice...
... to warming midday sun in the limestone valleys of Grazalema. More t-shirt walking weather.
Iris planifolia adorn the walking trails of Grazalema.
After a long winter walk, it's a treat to curl up in front of a roaring fire at our cosy countryside retreat.
You shouldn't come to Ronda and expect to have it to yourself. It can get extremely busy, very quickly. But with few crowds to contend with today, we were able to wander through the peaceful streets at our own pace.
There are always some lovely quiet corners to enjoy in Ronda, no matter how many visitors are lining up for a selfie on the Puente Nuevo. The Palacio Mondragón is one such peaceful pocket. This cliffside 14th century Moorish palace was the bit that brought me closest to the true scale of history in this grand old town.
Over to you? If you've been inspired by this little ramble through Andalucía and want to plot your own wintery wanderings, this self-drive trip is a pretty good starting point. When you're ready to set some plans into motion, or want to throw around some ideas, do please let us know.
