La Trochita and the little train that (just about) could
La Trochita - 'the little narrow gauge' - was built to do something straightforward: connect the remote settlements of Chubut Province to the outside world. But this is Patagonia. Nothing here is straightforward.
The railway was constructed in the early 1920s by Ferrocarriles Patagónicos. Its 75-centimetre gauge kept costs down and allowed the line to snake through terrain that would defeat a standard railway. And snake it does - 400 kilometres featuring some 600 curves, plus bridges, tunnels, and constant climbs and descents. The train still stops every hour or so to take on water. Heavy snowfall halts it. So does a flock of sheep. A strong gust of wind once derailed it entirely. Even now, the wind sometimes outpaces the engine and blows the steam ahead of the train.
Despite all this, La Trochita was a lifeline. It carried wool, timber, livestock, and supplies to and from towns that would otherwise have been completely cut off. It brought access to markets, medical care, essentials. And it wasn't just practical - it was social. The train brought people and cultures together in a region where isolation was the default.
From Lifeline to Living Museum
Modern roads eventually did what Patagonian weather couldn't: they made the railway redundant. By the late 20th century, La Trochita faced extinction.
But it survived. In 1999, it was designated a National Historic Monument. Tourism - and nostalgia - gave it new purpose. A helping hand came from Paul Theroux, whose 1979 book The Old Patagonian Express documented his journey on the train and introduced it to readers worldwide.
Today, La Trochita runs a much shorter 19-kilometre route between Esquel and Nahuel Pan. Visitors come for the experience of riding a vintage steam train through open Patagonian landscape, wood-panelled carriages rattling along tracks laid a century ago.
Should You Ride It?
Here's our honest take: it's a pleasant experience, but a tame one compared to what you'll encounter in the true wild country around Piedra Parada. If you're short on time, we wouldn't prioritise it.
That said, if your schedule allows and you're curious, it's easily accessible from the hotel we have you stay in - turn right down Avenida Alvear, then left up Brun to reach the station. You simply buy tickets online, or you check with your guide on timings, as they vary.
