A volcano hike that goes deeper than the landscape

Driving higher and higher through Costa Rica’s Central Highlands, flashes of green fields, filled with potatoes, carrots and onions, pop through the low clouds. As the mist thins, a vast ash-covered landscape suddenly appears — the dramatic slopes of Turrialba Volcano. 

Just 37 miles east of San José, this active stratovolcano has shaped the lives and livelihoods of those who live around it. In 2015, a powerful eruption spewed ash as high as 4km into the air, blanketing nearby farms, damaging crops, and displacing families. Though the volcano has since calmed, the echoes of that eruption still define this region — and for one local, it sparked a remarkable journey.

This became a chance to turn disaster into opportunity. 

Despite her family’s initial doubts, Gloriana began offering guided experiences, which share the area's geographical and human history,  whilst economically benefiting members of the community.

Journalist, Kate Humble, visited Turrialba on our ‘Hidden Highlights trip’ and sat down to discuss the story behind this unique experience in Costa Rica...

Kate: “So, what is special about Turrialba?”

Gloriana: “For me Turrialba Volcano is home. For us, seeing the difference between how the volcano was before the eruptions and how it got affected after that, it’s a huge contrast. It impacted not just my family, but all of the other local families here. 

If people want to go to the area, the volcano is one of the most active that we have in Costa Rica. And even if it is weird to believe, it is one of the least visited. That is a perfect combination for people who are looking for places that are not as crowded as Arenal or Guanacaste and will be able to have a connection. 

The volcano stands 3040m above sea level, so it's the second highest volcano we have in Costa Rica. It is really impressive just to drive all the way up and up and up, to the point that you view the volcano itself and see part of it green, part of it completely burned.

Being able to walk through it and visualise the impact that the eruption had in the area is amazing.”

As Kate discovered, walking the slopes of Turrialba isn’t just a scenic hike — it’s a journey through living memory. 

Kate: “I think for me, what really struck me about going out and walking on the slopes of the volcano with you was the unique perspective that you could give because as you say, you grew up there, so you could tell us what it was like before the eruption, but also what it was like to grow up in such a dynamic and extraordinary landscape.”

Gloriana: “Yeah, for us, it's home. It's home and being able to grow up there, to go to school there, for us, each place has a memory. That could be us riding a horse to go to school or our adventures when we were kids. It is amazing to be able to share that with people. 

Growing up in a rural area, it’s a pleasure for us to be able to share our history with people from around the world who are looking for a connection, for something real and authentic.”

The beauty of Turrialba is that there’s a route for everyone. Whether you’re an avid hiker or simply curious to experience a living volcano, there’s no need to be an athlete to appreciate it. 

Kate: Given that, as you've said, it's over 3000 meters and it's quite a drive up there, is it something that people who perhaps, are not so fit can enjoy? 

Do they have to climb to the top of the volcano to enjoy it, or can people who want a slightly gentler walk still experience that landscape?

Gloriana: “So that depends on what people would like to see. There are different tour options: 4 kilometres, 10 kilometres and 16 kilometres. 

The main attraction right now is walking through the forest first. People get to walk through the landscape and see the hills covered completely by ash and lava flows.

I would say that the experiences are all completely different. Our most challenging route is for people that have experience hiking, because you start at 2,600 meters and you reach 3,340m. 

In the other trails we walk to around 2600m, so it's not a big difference in altitude and is accessible for everybody. 

Kate describes the walk to the Pura team: 

“The route Gloriana took us on went from green pasture to ash-covered devastation. But even that has its own curious beauty, with dead trees rising from the post-apocalyptic black landscape. The walk is pretty easy, although it is high altitude which some might feel the effects of. Gloriana also told us about local wild fruits that she and her family would pick and how they used them and which plants are endemic to these high-altitude areas. We walked for about 4 hours – but a lot of that time was talking and looking – it was not in any way an endurance test!”

What makes Turrialba so special isn’t only the scenery — it’s the spirit of the people who live here. Tourism, done thoughtfully, has helped the community rebuild and thrive. 

Kate: “How important is it for your community? People know that tourism is very important to Costa Rica as a country. It's one of the biggest generators of foreign exchange. But let's take it down to communities and individuals, to the people that we as visitors actually meet.

What does it mean for you? How important is it for you that people do come to the area and take tours that are more personal, that are with small local businesses rather than with bigger tour operators?”

Gloriana:

“Something that I really like is Pura’s slogan “travel positive”. You make a positive impact, not just to me as a local guide, but also the farmer that is getting paid for letting us walk through the farm. It’s the people that I have to hire, to be able to run the tour and visiting my grandparents. It’s not just paying one person.

There is a connection of different people that are benefiting from that one person that is visiting the area. And that is something amazing. As I said, the Turrialba volcano is one of the least visited places, so you're getting a rural experience and a connection with the local people, which for me, when I travel, I try to do that.

It shows you the culture, what the region is about in general. And you get to sit with local people, you get to eat with local people. You get to enjoy as local people do not as a tourist, you feel part of something. 

When you book directly with the local guide, I would say that the connection is more real. If you go to a big restaurant in Costa Rica, you'll eat the food and it will be amazing, but when you are able to sit in the same house, in the same table, and share food with people like my grandpa on his farm, it changes the experience.”

 At Pura Aventura, that’s exactly what Travel Positive means — building journeys that are as good for the traveller as they are for the people and places they touch. 

Our network of trusted local partners makes experiences like Gloriana’s possible — full of personality, connection, and meaning. It’s a joy to share these stories and to bring you closer to the communities that make Costa Rica so unforgettable. 

If you’re curious to experience Turrialba for yourself, get in touch — we’d love to help you plan an adventure that gives back.